At the little surf village of Angourie near Yamba, the Blue Pools are former quarry holes filled with startlingly clear, deep blue fresh water, hidden in coastal forest a short walk from the sea. Long a favourite of surfers and locals, they are a place to leap from the rocks into cool, deep water on a hot day - though the depth and the drop demand care. The surrounding Yuraygir coast of headlands and empty beaches is among the least developed in New South Wales. Freshwater swimming steps from the surf, in a pocket of green calm.