Smith &Daughters

A red-brick corner of Collingwood's Cambridge Street houses Shannon Martinez's entirely plant-based kitchen, where the cooking leans Mediterranean and Spanish rather than worthy or ascetic. The room has shed its set-menu formality for a looser Social Club format: a la carte snacks, louder music, and a drinks list built for lingering. What lands is convincing enough to disarm committed carnivores, from cured cold cuts to molten cheeses and pasta with the heft of the real thing. It is vegan cooking that argues its case through flavour and technique rather than substitution novelty, and it has done as much as any room in the city to make plant-based dining feel like an occasion rather than a compromise. Dinner Tuesday to Saturday.