The old general store at the crossroads in Federal, a blink of a hamlet in the Byron hinterland, has since 2012 housed one of the region's most quietly loved kitchens. The cooking is Japanese-inflected and built for grazing, with a plant-based following that goes well past tokenism: chia-crusted tofu, mushroom katsu, eggplant dengaku and a vegan breakfast of fermented beetroot, cashew-cheese eggplant and edamame over brown rice, finished with Japanese kombucha or a vegan affogato. Vegetarian dishes are marked, the staff know the menu, and the verandah fills with locals and day-trippers routing through to Nimbin and Lismore. It rewards the detour off the main roads, small, seasonal and genuinely of its place.
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