On Newcombe Street in the coastal town of Portarlington, this 1888 hotel looks out toward Port Phillip Bay from the northern edge of the Bellarine Peninsula. Recently refurbished, it keeps the character of the paddle-steamer era across an atrium, restaurant, front bar and lawn, with boutique rooms upstairs. The kitchen runs a steady week of local fixtures, from Monday curries to Thursday mussels. It suits travellers who want a night above a working country pub rather than a resort.