High Street in Northcote holds this family-run, entirely vegan dining room, named for a brother whose vision of a gentler way of eating the family carries on. The cooking is ambitious and unabashedly fun, taking in truffled beef, calamari, dumplings, a smash burger and nasi goreng, plant-based food that courts pleasure rather than virtue, served alongside wine, beer and cocktails. Two decades in, the operation runs on solar power and fair wages and takes food allergies seriously, but wears its ethics lightly at the table. Dessert runs to creme brulee and matcha, and the room fills with locals who are not necessarily vegan but come for the cooking. Dinner Tuesday to Sunday, with weekend lunches.
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