A tropical-north fixture on Lake Street, this Cairns dining room has built its reputation on doing yum cha properly in a part of the country where that is rarer than it should be. The kitchen runs to traditional and modern Cantonese alongside Peking-style cooking, but the daily lunch service is the draw: more than a hundred varieties of dim sum, all made in-house rather than bought in, turned out by chefs recruited specifically from mainland China and Hong Kong to hold the standard. That range means the trolley can carry both the classics you would order anywhere and newer, less expected things, and the emphasis on freshly steamed, freshly folded dumplings is the point of difference. The scale suits the tropics too, a small VIP room for twenty and a much larger space that seats two hundred, ready for a wedding banquet, a birthday or a company function. It opens across the back half of the week for both lunch and dinner, and it functions as the kind of dependable, family-run engine room a city leans on for its big occasions. In a region better known for reef and rainforest, it is a genuine destination for Cantonese cooking done at volume without cutting corners.
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