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Ichi Izakaya

다윈 & 톱 엔드, NT

Up on the first floor of Paspalis Centrepoint on Smith Street, this is about as credible a Japanese room as the Top End offers, and it wears that quietly. The format is izakaya in the proper sense: small plates built for grazing and drinking, run across sushi and sashimi, ramen, tempura and skewers off the grill. Mixed sashimi arrives with salmon, tuna and prawn set against sushi rice and a cucumber salad; the chicken katsu comes out reliably crisp; gyoza cover the vegetarian table. What lifts it above a standard suburban Japanese is the bar. Being properly licensed, the counter carries a genuine spread of Japanese whisky and sake alongside local wine, the sort of list that suggests someone here actually cares about what goes in the glass rather than treating drinks as an afterthought. In a city not overrun with Japanese options, that combination of a broad, capably executed menu and a serious back bar has earned it a devoted following. It is the kind of place a Darwin regular sends visitors to, confident the food and the pour will both hold up over a long, unhurried evening.

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