At the very tip of the Mornington Peninsula, where Port Phillip meets the open sea at the treacherous Rip, Point Nepean is a windswept headland of coastal-defence forts, quarantine buildings and walking tracks. A path and shuttle run out to the point past gun emplacements and tunnels that guarded the bay for a century, with views across to the Bellarine and out to the ocean. Below, the surf coast and the calmer bay beaches meet in a tangle of cliff and current. History, wild coast and big sea air combine on a bracing walk at the edge of the continent.