TABLE ATLAS · RESTAURANT

Big Don'sSmoked Meats

PERTH, WA

Donovan MacDonald, a Canadian who landed in Perth at eighteen and taught himself brisket, opens Big Don's for one service a week and sells it out every time. The Bayswater room runs on pre-order: the menu posts Monday, orders close Tuesday, and Saturday brings a single option, a share pack for four, cut to order at the carvery in front of the queue. Brisket, ribs and house-made sausages are the constants, smoked across a row of large Texan offsets, with scotch fillet, lamb ribs and Philly cheesesteaks rotating through. It holds a Chef's Hat.

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