Jang TaBal

Charcoal smoke and the hiss of fat over coals have made this one of Strathfield's enduring Korean grill houses, a room where beer towers and a good-natured din are as much the point as the meat. The grilling is done the old way, over charcoal rather than gas, and the cuts reward it: marbled wagyu, thin brisket, beef tongue, galbi glossy with marinade, spiced lamb, and, for the adventurous, pork intestines. Every order lands with a spread of house-made banchan, and on a good night that includes a bracing serve of raw crab slicked in chilli paste, a dish that separates the curious from the committed. The crowd skews young and loud, students and groups who know to arrive before six unless they fancy joining the queue that forms most evenings along The Boulevarde. Service keeps pace with the volume, brisk and warm even when every table is turning. There is no reinvention here and none is wanted: this is Korean barbecue as social ritual, built on quality meat, competent cooking and a room that hums until late. For many Sydney diners it was an early introduction to the form, and it has held its ground while flashier rivals came and went.