Meatmaiden

Descend into the basement of the Georges Building on Little Collins Street and the brief is clear: steak, smoke, no ceremony. The kitchen runs an ironbark-fired smoker and a custom-built grill, dry-ageing select cuts in-house. Lunch means a $55 steak-frites-anchored Express Meat; dinner scales up to a seven-course sharing menu. The room pitches somewhere between supper club and neighbourhood grill.