Leeds Street in Footscray, a short walk from the market, is home to this small, entirely vegan Vietnamese kitchen and its long list of mock-meat cooking. Pho arrives fragrant and meat-free, alongside salt-and-pepper tofu, Peking duck rolls, crisp pancakes and rice-paper rolls, the familiar Vietnamese repertoire rebuilt without animal products and with real conviction. It is a modest, takeaway-leaning room in a suburb defined by its Vietnamese cooking, and it holds its own there, which is no small thing. Prices are low, portions are ample, and the kitchen keeps long hours seven days a week. A worthwhile reason to cross the river.
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