The mountain that looms over Hobart, kunanyi rises to 1,271 metres barely twenty minutes from the waterfront, and the summit lookout takes in the whole of it - the city, the Derwent estuary, Bruny Island and, on a clear day, the wild country to the south-west. A short boardwalk loops through the alpine boulder field to the edge of the Organ Pipes, the great columns of dolerite that ring the peak. Snow falls here even in summer and the weather turns on a coin, so carry a layer whatever the forecast below. The road to the top is one of the great short drives in the country.