Korean cooking here arrives without the usual signposts: no barbecue table, no bibimbap, no late-night soju roar. Instead the co-owning chef, whose CV runs through Mr Miyagi, Nobu and the three-Michelin-starred Benu, builds an entire menu off a single woodfire grill and the fermented jang sauces that form the backbone of the cuisine. Smoke and char run as a through-line from the first snack to the slowest main. Wagyu tartare comes with nashi pear and whipped tahini; gnocchi is turned through gochujang butter with curry leaf and sesame; a cut of wagyu flap is grilled and set against eggplant, nori oil and kale, while the day's fish meets a doenjang beurre blanc and pickled zucchini. It is Korean flavour read through pickling, fermentation and fire rather than through familiar formats, and the room follows suit, quiet, considered, closer to a modern Melbourne dining room than a barbecue joint. This Commercial Road address takes the refined, restrained path, and asks to be judged on technique rather than volume. Come for the woodfire and the depth the fermented sauces give it, and expect a menu that resists easy comparison.
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