A corner pizzeria at Grey Street and Fish Lane, South Brisbane, run on firm house rules: no gluten-free pizza, no phone bookings, one bill per table. From the wood oven, the pizzas stay classic. Margherita with fior di latte, Campania with anchovies and wild oregano, Salsiccia with pork and fennel. Behind them the kitchen turns out duck-ragù pappardelle, veal saltimbocca and O'Connor sirloin, with a long Italian wine and amaro list. The menu's in Italian. Come early, come often.
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