East of Esperance on the wild south coast, Cape Le Grand is famous for beaches so white and water so brilliantly turquoise they scarcely seem real. Lucky Bay, where kangaroos sometimes laze on the sand, is regularly named among the whitest beaches in the country, and a chain of granite headlands shelters bay after perfect bay. The coastal track links them on foot, and Frenchman Peak rises behind for a summit scramble and a view over the coast and the islands of the Recherche Archipelago. Camping by the beach puts the colour of the water at your doorstep. It is the south coast at its most dazzling.