At the southern edge of the Daintree, the Mossman River pours out of the rainforest over granite boulders into a run of clear, cold swimming holes. A short walk from the Mossman Gorge Centre - reached by shuttle to protect the forest - leads to the water, where the river runs startlingly clear and the current strong after rain. Rainforest crowds the banks, and the Kuku Yalanji people, the country's traditional owners, offer guided walks that read the forest as a living larder and pharmacy. On a hot far-north day, few swims are finer. Take care with the current when the river is up.