Coffee is roasted on site here, in and around a 1930s house on Bultje Street where the dining rooms open onto a garden. The specialty roastery supplies its own tables and a wholesale trade across the region, so the espresso in the cup is the same bean sold in retail bags, subscriptions and single-origin at the counter. The kitchen cooks seasonally, unhurried all-day food built for a morning off the Newell Highway. In a city where good coffee was long hard to come by, this has become the name locals give first: a working roaster rather than a cafe that happens to stock beans. Weekends fill quickly, so a booking helps.