Congee is the headline, not the hangover cure, one of the few Melbourne kitchens to treat Cantonese rice porridge as a dish worth building a whole menu around. A block from the Queen Victoria Market, the counter turns out more than thirty versions of it, the silky base reportedly the work of months of tinkering and a private blend of seasonings that does the quiet work of umami beneath whatever tops the bowl. Order it with preserved egg and pork mince, with Chinese yam, with sausage or with shiitake and rib; the porridge stays the constant, loose and glossy, ladled hot. Around it sits the rest of an all-day Cantonese breakfast, steamed custard buns, prawn rice rolls slippery in their soy, and clear pork-rib and chicken soups thrown with jujube and medicinal mushrooms for something restorative. The room is plain and functional, geared to a brisk turnover of market-goers and homesick regulars rather than lingering. It is comfort food in the truest sense, the sort of gentle, savoury cooking that rarely gets its own address, done by a kitchen that decided the humblest thing on the yum cha trolley deserved to be the main event.