A Chinatown fixture at the top of Little Bourke Street since 1980, this multi-storey Cantonese house has fed generations of Melburnians on all-day yum cha and late-night noodles. The draw is the sheer range: more than a hundred dim sum varieties by day, then a long a la carte and set-banquet menu that keeps the tables turning well into the evening. Seafood is pulled live from tanks near the entrance and finished in the Cantonese style, steamed, sauced or salt-and-pepper fried, and the kitchen holds to a philosophy of solid cooking at fair prices rather than reinvention. The room is big and unpretentious, the kind of place that suits a boisterous group as easily as a quick weekday lunch, with efficient staff moving between floors. It has weathered decades of change around it, outlasting fashions in a strip where restaurants come and go, and remains a default for large-table Cantonese eating in the city centre. Yum cha here is the trolley-and-tick tradition rather than a curated tasting, generous and quick, and dinner leans toward the shared banquet. For old-school Chinatown dim sum with the seafood tanks bubbling in the foyer, it is among the last of its kind still doing it at scale.
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