A cramped, cheerful cantina on Gertrude Street that has been feeding Fitzroy vegetarian Mexican since 2001, seating barely forty-five at a squeeze. The menu is meat-free throughout, from tacos and burritos to quesadillas, tamales and a decent breakfast, with vegan versions of nearly everything, down to the cheese, sour cream and ice cream. Prices stay low, the salsa does the talking, and there is none of the fine-dining ambition that has crept into plant-based cooking elsewhere in the city; this is a neighbourhood taqueria that happens to be vegetarian, and better for it. A second outpost trades in St Kilda, but the Gertrude Street original remains the one locals mean. Lunch and dinner through the week.
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