Very GoodFalafel

This Sydney Road counter, run by Shuki and Louisa, deals in Middle Eastern cooking that is vegetarian by design and largely vegan in practice: falafel fried to order, hummus whipped smooth, and a daily spread of salads that shifts with what looks good at market. The room is small and unfussy, and the lunchtime queue tells you what Brunswick makes of it. Pita arrives stuffed or plated, pickles and sauces are made in house, and the whole operation runs with the assurance of cooks who know exactly what to do with chickpeas and herbs. There is no phone and little pretence, just very good falafel, as advertised. Open weekdays into the evening and Saturday afternoons.