A modest shopfront on Military Road, part glass-walled kitchen and part shaded outdoor tables beneath a marquee, this is a dumpling specialist that has drawn a steady North Shore following. Through the partition you can watch the folding and pleating that anchors a menu of some fifteen dumpling varieties. The pan-fried pork buns are the draw: thin-based, blistered and filled with hot broth, best approached by nipping the top and letting the soup settle before biting in. The steamed soup dumplings run a close second, their skins thin enough to hold the liquid without tearing. Hand-made noodles matter here too, Shanghai-style and pulled so each strand sits slightly different from the last. Beyond the dumplings there are prawn har gow, siu mai, wontons in a soy-and-chilli dressing, and a short line of greens and mapo tofu for the table. Prices stay honest, mostly in the low teens per plate, which is part of the appeal. The mood is casual and unfussy, welcoming to families and dogs, and geared to quick, generous eating rather than ceremony. It is the kind of neighbourhood room locals return to on a weeknight without much thought.