Gelateria Bico keeps a low profile on Albert Street in Brunswick — a neighbourhood gelato shop that lets the product, rather than the marketing, do the talking. There's little fanfare and no lengthy manifesto: just a cabinet of gelato, a handful of tables' worth of local trade, and hours tuned to the way the inner north actually eats, opening mid-afternoon on weekdays and earlier at the weekend, then running late into the evening six days a week. It's the kind of unshowy local you fold into a Brunswick night — a scoop after dinner, a cone on the walk home — and the sort of place worth wandering in to discover for yourself. Sometimes the quiet ones turn out to be the keepers.
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