Goryon San

Charcoal does the talking at this Reservoir Street izakaya, where Hakata-style kushiyaki — marinated meat, seafood and vegetables threaded onto skewers and grilled to order — is served the way it might be in a Fukuoka backstreet. The format is omakase, chef's choice, in two lengths. The shorter Hakata set runs to five skewers picked at the counter; the longer robata progression opens things up to duck foie gras terrine, yuzu-miso marinated toothfish, grilled baby calamari finished with konbu butter, and a thick tonkotsu ramen with pork gyoza to close. Umeshu and a short Japanese list keep pace with the grill. The room is small and usually full, warm with smoke and chatter, close enough to Central to draw an early-evening crowd and lively enough that tables turn on a gentle clock. There is care beyond the plate, too: the kitchen makes a point of paying its staff correct award rates, a quiet ethic that carries through to the service. Bookings are wise, walk-ins optimistic. What lands is less a themed night out than a faithful, generous reading of one Japanese regional tradition, cooked over fire and eaten with your hands.