On the Crookhaven River at Greenwell Point, Sally McLean and her father Jim Wild shuck the family's Sydney rock and Pacific oysters to order, close to the water where the boats work the estuary. Jim shucked his way to Australian and world titles in the 1980s, and the trade shows in how fast the trays turn over on a busy Saturday morning. There's no dining room; customers eat standing at the water's edge or take dozens home, and the operation runs on the tides and the season as much as the clock, open Wednesday to Saturday most of the year, seven days through December and January, and closed altogether in August. Fresh prawns are sold alongside the oysters when they're running. Greenwell Point is a working fishing village at the mouth of the Shoalhaven River, and this is the kind of stop that rewards turning off the highway rather than sticking to the Nowra bypass.