CIBI

Since 2008, a converted Collingwood warehouse on Keele Street has quietly made the case for the traditional Japanese breakfast as the anchor of an unhurried morning. That set of grilled fish, rice, miso, pickles and a soft egg has become the reference point for everything else here: a cafe and grocer where the coffee bar opens early on weekdays and the kitchen keeps its own considered hours. The cooking is seasonal and restrained, drifting through weekend sake-and-oden evenings, mochi-pounding in winter and ramen kits to finish at home. Occupying the same rooms is a homewares store that treats Japanese design as something to live with rather than admire from a distance, from ceramics and kitchen tools to Tendo Mokko furniture and the paper glow of a Noguchi Akari lamp, each chosen for simplicity and everyday use. The effect is coherent: what you eat, drink and carry home all speak the same quiet language. A second outpost has since opened in Okayama, closing the loop back to Japan, but the Collingwood original remains the calm, light-filled heart of it, equal parts breakfast table, pantry and gallery, run with the patience its cooking implies.