Mat Lindsay opened Ester on a Chippendale back street in 2013 with a wood-fired oven as the centrepiece, native ingredients on the plate and biodynamic wine on the list when that combination wasn't yet a Sydney house style. The blood-sausage sanga has been there from day one, alongside the burnished whole cauliflower and the potato bread that gets pulled apart over kefir cream, dashi jelly and trout roe. Co-owner Julien Dromgool runs the drinks and a wine list that's stayed restless across twelve years. Five nights and weekend lunches. Two stars from Gourmet Traveller; one of the restaurants Sydney chefs eat at on their nights off.
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