TABLE ATLAS · RESTAURANT

Gaon KoreanBBQ

CANBERRA DISTRICT, ACT

Set into one of the heritage buildings along Northbourne Avenue, at the northern edge of Civic, this is Korean barbecue given a considered, grown-up setting. The room runs dark, with exposed brick, a wash of neon and industrial extraction hoods dropping down over each table, and the effect is more inner-city than the strip of government-town frontage outside would suggest. Two Korean chefs run the kitchen with close to three decades of cooking between them, and the barbecue reflects that care: wagyu across several cuts, marinated meats brought raw to grill over the coals at your own pace, cooked the way a table likes to linger. Beyond the grill there is a full a la carte reach into the rest of the repertoire, so a group can order platters to cook alongside stews, rice and noodle dishes without leaning entirely on the barbecue. Portions are generous and the pricing stays honest, which has made it a reliable draw for the city's Korean community and for anyone after a proper cook-your-own night in the centre of town. It suits big tables and slow evenings more than a quick solo meal.

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