Kisuke

Down Llankelly Place, behind an unshowy frontage, a counter of just a handful of seats runs a single daily-changing omakase. There is no menu to speak of; the chef builds each sitting around whatever arrived that morning, which is also why dietary swaps aren't offered. The hands behind it belong to a chef who trained in Tokyo, cooked at Hotel Okura in Amsterdam and Tatsuso in London, then settled in Sydney in 1994 and has run kitchens here ever since, opening a first room in Willoughby in 2012 before moving the idea to Potts Point in 2020. The experience is priced at $220 a head and sized for parties of two, four or six — an intimacy that has made seats genuinely hard to come by, released monthly on the first of the month for the weeks ahead. Expect nigiri paced and shaped to the moment, seasoned at the counter rather than at the table, and a welcome that carries the quiet formality of a good Japanese sushi-ya. It is one of the city's more disciplined sushi experiences, small by design and unhurried by nature, open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner only.