Launceston behaves like a city three times its size. It keeps the only museum collection of Tasmanian design in the country, a woollen mill that has run since before Federation, a brewery on the same river site since 1881, and — twenty minutes up the West Tamar — the shaft where the 2006 mine rescue held the nation’s attention for a fortnight. This day works the city’s collecting habit outward: Design Tasmania’s wood collection, blankets off Waverley’s looms, Boag’s brewhouse, lunch on a waterfront run by the same restaurateur for fifty years, then the river road north — Australia’s only cidery working exclusively in méthode traditionnelle, and the Beaconsfield museum built around the rescue that renamed the town. A second city, first-rate archive.
Cataract Gorge is the city’s great free spectacle — fold it in before the river road if the day allows.