Jeni Kolkka spent seven years commuting between Australia and New York, running hundred-hour weeks at Citibank to keep this Lancefield estate solvent. Now sole owner, she oversees 14.5 hectares planted mostly to Pinot Noir at 540 metres — Australia's coolest mainland wine region. Vines go back to 1992; ferments use only ambient yeast. The cool elevation does the rest.
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