Since 2018 this has been the room reshaping how Sydney thinks about Korean food, and it holds the distinction of being the city's only hatted Korean restaurant. It is the work of husband-and-wife Daero Lee and Illa Kim, a pairing whose backgrounds explain the finished style: he trained across Italian, French and Korean kitchens and grew up on the coast at Pohang, while she came through design in Berlin, and the food and the room both carry that dual sensibility. The cooking is contemporary Korean built on modern Australian technique and produce, precise rather than nostalgic, with kingfish served in kimchi water and prawn tteokbokki among the dishes that made its name. Having started as a thirty-seater in Surry Hills, the restaurant has since moved into the CBD near Wynyard, trading the original space for a sleeker, darker setting that suits its ambition. The menu runs from recognisable classics to more avant-garde plates, all pulling toward the same idea of Korean flavour reimagined without losing its soul. Bookings are wise, especially at the weekend. For anyone tracking where modern Korean cooking sits in Australia, this is one of the essential tables.
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