Fiume

By day a coffee-and-brunch bar, this Hyde Street room shifts into a relaxed euro bistro after dark, when the kitchen turns to handmade pasta, slow-cooked pork belly and a meat-and-pickle plate to share. The draw for many is the drinks list, built around minimal-intervention wines poured by the glass alongside a short run of cocktails. Evening service is deliberately limited: through the cooler months dinner currently runs Saturday nights from early evening, with Friday sittings added in warmer seasons, so it pays to check ahead and book. It is a small, independent operation rather than part of any group, and the cooking follows what is in season rather than a fixed menu. For an unhurried, produce-led dinner with an interesting glass of wine, it is among the town's more distinctive rooms.