TABLE ATLAS · RESTAURANT

Ginseng ChineseRestaurant

CANBERRA DISTRICT, PHILLIP, AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

Inside a Woden members' club, a dining room has quietly built one of Canberra's more serious cases for weekend yum cha. The reputation rests on dumplings: hand-folded to order across a long roster of steamed and fried varieties, wheeled out through lunch on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays to tables that fill early and book ahead. The cooking is Cantonese and unhurried, running from delicate prawn and pork siu mai to har gow, cheung fun and the sweet punctuation of egg tarts, with a broader menu of seafood, stir-fries and noodle soups behind the trolley service. The setting is modern rather than nostalgic, with round banquet tables, contemporary lighting and several semi-private rooms that make it a default for family gatherings and larger functions. Service is professional and used to a crowd, which matters when the room is at full tilt on a weekend. Multiple industry awards have followed over the years, but the appeal is simpler than any trophy suggests: careful dumpling work, generous variety and a kitchen that treats yum cha as a craft rather than a conveyor belt. For a landlocked city, it remains one of the more dependable places to spend a long lunch over tea and steamer baskets.

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Car Park, 1 Matilda St, Phillip ACT 2606
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