Salingers ofGreat Western

Great Western made its name on sparkling wine, and this cafe puts the village's other pleasures on a plate. It occupies a brick building on the main road that traces back to the town's nineteenth-century beginnings, its exposed walls and worn timber floors left to do the decorating. The kitchen runs all-day breakfast and a lunch menu drawn in part from its own garden, and the drinks list leans hard on the wineries a few minutes' drive in every direction, a useful primer before or after a cellar-door circuit. An adjoining general store handles takeaway coffee and provisions for those pushing on toward the Grampians or back to Melbourne. Open seven days, it is the reliable table in a town better known for what is in the glass than what is on the plate.