Yavanna

On Latrobe Terrace in Paddington, this dining room takes the comfort-food canon and rebuilds it entirely from plants. The kitchen leans into indulgence and nostalgia rather than worthiness — loaded burgers, fried things, rich sauces — and the results have won over eaters who arrived sceptical. It runs dinner through the week and opens for weekend brunch, when the wait on the terrace is part of the ritual. The fit-out is warm and unfussy, more corner bistro than health cafe, and the entirely vegan menu is stated plainly rather than sold. Paddington's antique shops and hilly streets make a fitting backdrop for a place that treats plant-based cooking as pleasure first. Portions are generous, the mood is easygoing, and there is little here to suggest anything is missing from the plate.